The top attraction in Thekkady are the boat safaris operated by the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC). The boat jetty and ticket counter are inside the Park, near the Aranya Nivas hotel. The first trip at 7 AM and the last at 4 PM offer the best game sighting chances. Try and get an upper deck ticket for a better view. There is no advance booking facility and it is advisable to be at the ticket counter at least an hour prior to departure. Rates are nominal (Rs 40-70).

The Forest department also has a few boats which can be hired. When we visited these boats were stranded for want of diesel ! This would be a good option if you want an exclusive or a longer trip for reasons like photography or film shooting. You can book these through the Wildlife Information Centre near the Aranya Nivas hotel.

For the more adventurous and hardy enthusiasts, there are watchtowers inside the forest which can be hired

through the Wildlife Information Centre at around Rs 100 per night. Each watchtower can accommodate 2 persons, but you will have to carry your own mattress, water and food. You will be dropped near the towers by the 4 PM boat and picked up next morning by the 7 AM boat, so be prepared for a long night's vigil. We have not been on the towers as these were already booked, but on a moonlit night the experience should be fascinating.

Jungle treks are a favourite activity in Periyar. Make sure you go with an official guide (local tribals who are licenced by the Wildlife department). Treks can be organised through your hotel or you can join those leaving from the Wildlife Information Centre

twice a day.It might be better to have a guide to yourself if you can afford the cost (around Rs 200 for half a day) as this will avoid being in a noisy group and give you the liberty of choosing your speed. Treks last 4 to 5 hours and are an excellent way to explore the flora and fauna of the unique evergreen forests. If you are lucky you may come close to a herd of elephants or gaur or sambar. Watch out for leeches - they are everywhere - wearing long pants and shoes is a must. Carry enough water and some light snacks to keep you going.

For the hard core wild life enthusiasts, there are three forest bungalows deep inside the Periyar sanctuary - at Mannakavala, Mullakudy and Edappalayam. These are reached by first taking a boat ride and then a 5-8 kilometer trek accompanied by the caretaker. You need to take your own provisions although the caretaker will cook for you. We could not manage to get reservations but spoke to one of the caretakers. He said the bungalows have trenches around them and therefore one can see wild life at very close quarters from the verandah or the room. Facilities are spartan, but you can have a very special experience at a princely sum of Rs 300 per night !

For both the watch towers and the forest bungalows, it would be advisable to book in advance by contacting the Wildlife Information Centre, Periyar or the Wildlife Preservation Office, Kumili (see 'Useful Information' for address).